Lean and Luscious Fried Tofu: 2 Easy Viet Recipes
Fried tofu smothered with green onions + Coconut-Caramel Tofu and Shrimp
Hello PTFSers!
The tofu train is rolling along. Hannah has a question that’s out of my geographic knowledge. Lend a hand, if you can.
Thanks in advance for sharing insights with PTFSrs!
I spent most of this week in Napa at the Culinary Institute of America’s plant-forward summit, where among the touchy subjects was the future of meat. Vegans attended but the conference organizers framed discussions in practical ways — if we want to foster healthier people and help the planet, let’s all get along in the kitchen and at the table.
Regarding meat, initiatives such as the Good Meat Project argued that meat has nutritional value for many, so how can we build affordable access to quality, sustainable meat?
On the other hand, a nutritionist said to me that we focus too much on protein. “It’s easy to get enough protein in our diets. For good health, focus on getting enough fiber! The protein will naturally come along.” About 25 grams of fiber per day will make you feel full and healthier.
I presented twice. At one point, the summit’s executive director, Rupa Bhattacharya, asked about my Mediterranean Diet and cultural inclusivity post. You never know who reads PTFS. I was honored to share my perspectives.
What did I demo? The grilled rice paper pizza (bánh tráng nướng) and young jackfruit salad (gỏi mít non chay) from Ever-Green Vietnamese. My husband got a kick from seeing me get goofy on stage and appear on a giant screen. His pics!
In the audience were indie chefs and restaurateurs as well as people in charge of university and corporate cafeterias that feed tens of thousands, even millions of people each day. There was lots to chew on, all fueled by healthy food and Napa wines.
Soy appeared at the buffet breakfasts, breaks, lunches and evening receptions. Unfortunately, the three or so tofu dishes were bland.
I drove home wanting to cook up tofu to do it justice. Last week’s post on fried tofu resulted in a size-able tofu stash that I had to freeze before I left town for Napa.
I promptly thawed it for a homey favorite that I grew up with — Fried Tofu Smothered with Green Onions (Đậu Hũ Chiên Tẩm Hành Lá). My mom used to make it all the time. It’s incredibly simple — six ingredients including water, absolutely delicious, and repurpose-able.
The tofu is traditionally deep-fried but I used my leaner fried tofu and it was good with extra-firm tofu. My brother, Dan, came for dinner and ate nearly half the batch with rice and also dunked it into a Thai green curry sauce that I’d made.
I liked the rendition but the extra-firm tofu was a little too chewy, making the dish taste too lean. I fried up firm and medium-firm tofu, remade the dish and voila! — the tofu and green onions became more luscious. I did not use more oil in the recipe (see below!).
Why fry anything but extra-firm tofu?
I know. You want tofu texture security and that comes in the form of extra-firm tofu. However, let me share this:
Tender tofu is delicate and custardy. When it’s fried, it tastes fatty while still a bit chewy like meat. If you’re up for frying medium-firm or firm tofu, the result is akin to perfectly poached or roasted chicken breast.
Extra-firm tofu is sturdy but once fried, it can come off as dry and overly chewy. But that’s also me pushing you to explore the tofu world!
If you’re a tofu-frying beginner, go extra lean with extra-firm tofu. Then progress to firm or medium-firm.
What kind of tofu should you fry?
Like Goldilocks, you may find that the tofu in the middle — firm tofu (above) — is the way to go. I purposefully photographed the tofu pieces to show their soft, sunken texture. It may not look Instagram perfect but it signals tasty tofu.
More tender tofu can break during cooking but its greater porosity means it will absorb seasonings better and its interior will remain softer and silkier.
On the other hand, you may prefer Papa 🐻’s extra-firm tofu or Baby 🧸’s medium-firm tofu. I’m merely a tofu enabler pushing your bean curd boundaries.
In this post, I’m sharing two Vietnamese tofu recipes — fried tofu with green onions and a quick coconutty braise of tofu and shrimp in caramel sauce. Both are typically served with boiled/steamed rice, but you can go rogue. Here’s our salady green onion tofu lunch!
The salty tofu was good with the tangy refreshing greens. How about impromptu avocado toasts with green onion-y tofu?
These tofu recipes have big flavor to underscore that tofu isn’t a bland food. Like all proteins, it just starts out that way and needs to be thoughtfully seasoned and prepared.
Fried Tofu Smothered with Green Onions | Đậu Hũ Chiên Tẩm Hành Lá
To recap, make this with medium-firm or firm tofu and the results are soft, a bit custardy, and fatty tasting. There’s little oil involved in this dish so if you use a more tender tofu, the “lean” preparation becomes more luscious. Serve with rice or a salad. Try it on top of grain bowls or porridge (congee, cháo). Double it and warm/refresh with a little water in a skillet or microwave.
There are enough green onions that the dish’s Viet name includes tẩm hành lá, which means “coated in green onions”. I translated it here as “smothered in green onion” for a lyrical tone.
Serves 2 or 3
14 to 16 ounces medium-firm, firm, or extra-firm tofu, or 10 to 12 ounces Pan-fried Tofu cubes or logs
Fine sea salt
Neutral oil, for frying
1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, vegan or non-vegan (see Note)
1/3 cup water
2 green onions, coarsely chopped, divided
Panfry tofu
If you have not fried the tofu, cut the tofu block into 1-inch cubes. With guidance from my master Pan-Fried Tofu recipe (and video), season with salt, drain, and then fry the tofu cubes into a crusty, golden finish.
Using a stash of already pan-fried the tofu? If you fried up logs, halve them to make cubes. If you have cubes, you’re ahead of the game.
Simmer and smother
In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, stir together 1 tablespoon of fish sauce and the water. Taste and add up to 1 ½ teaspoons for a lightly salty, umami flavor. It will cook down and double in intensity during cooking.
Add the tofu and green onion whites. Set over medium heat, bring to a simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally to expose all the surfaces to the seasonings, until the tofu absorbs most of the liquid, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover, scatter in the remaining green onion greens, and give everything a big stir. Once the green onion soften, remove from the heat, transfer to a shallow bowl and serve immediately.
Note
For a vegetarian version, I use my homemade nuoc mam chay (vegan fish sauce) from Ever-Green Vietnamese. It’s easy to make, not chemically tasting, and a 1-to-1 swap for standard fish sauce. If you use another brand, you may need lots more.
Coconut-Caramel Shrimp and Tofu | Tôm Kho Đậu Hủ
Spiked with black pepper and coated with coconut, this tofu and shrimp combo is incredibly good with rice or other grains, and a simple sautéed or stir-fried vegetable like summer squash, broccolini or green beans. Sliced cucumber would be a refreshing accompaniment too. It’s also good in a banh mi or as a taco filling. Put some atop grits as a nod to the robust Viet communities in the American South!
Combining tofu and shrimp is akin to braising shrimp with pork belly — only here, to mimic pork’s richness, I used tofu. The two proteins offer textural contrast. In crafting this leaner version — Tôm Kho Đậu Hủ, you’ll use less animal protein too. It’s also budget friendly (good shrimp and pork are getting pricey).
