I began reading Bon Appetit magazine in the mid-1980s, when it was based in Los Angeles. My family thought it had something to do with French cooking and I recall one particular issue featuring the French chef Michel Guerard, who shared a recipe for stuffed and poached chicken breast. I used and tweaked that recipe for years to impress my family and boyfriend (now husband). I had no idea who he was until that magazine arrived on my doorstep, and then went on to explore his other recipes and cookbooks, to learn about cooking and techniques.
The magazine world is different in 2023. Bon Appetit (“BA”) is now in New York, targets a youngish audience, and has broadened its perspectives to incorporate much more than western European perspectives. I’ve never been in the magazine before and was happily surprised when they reached out about Ever-Green Vietnamese and plumbed it for ideas that would dovetail with their audience.
BA put a strong Asian American team on the feature, including food stylist Thu Pham Buser, who recently thanked me for advising her a few years ago about her career. I was touched that she remembered and thrilled that she was involved in my recipes somehow. I don’t know who will read the BA story about me but maybe I’ll impact them in some way.
If you didn’t catch the video at the top, the BA feature looks like this:
Most of the recipes were adapted from Ever-Green Vietnamese. Publications do this all the time. Note that what you’ll see is not 100 percent the same as what you’ll read in the book. I have vetted their test kitchen tweaks.
There is one new recipe that I shared with BA—Char Siu Tofu Bao Sliders, which is a cross between a banh mi and a bao sandwich. It’s my vegan take on pork belly buns and it’s remarkably satisfying without weighing you down like the pork would. When managed well, tofu’s tenderness is fatty-seeming but without richness
Ready all the components and set them out for people to assemble their own mini sandwiches. Don’t have the print magazine? The Char Siu Tofu Bao slider recipe is available at Bon Appetit’s website too.
Book Tour Updates: Totes and Chef Collaborations
If you’re in San Francisco, meet me at the book launch on Tuesday, April 25, at Omnivore Books. Pre-order the book from the shop (or anywhere else) and get pre-order perks too!
And, I designed a bilingual EGV herb tote bag, mostly for small businesses to sell at my in-person events. Oakland-based Asian artist Jules Butt did the beautiful artwork. If you get a tote, I look forward to your feedback.
The Smithsonian Associates chose a photo from the book for their April program book! That’s what you see above, lower right. I’m so proud that they’re shining an extra spotlight on the April 30 event in Washington, D.C., which includes Washington Post editor Joe Yonan and acclaimed chef Kevin Tien.
For the first time my career, I’m doing events with Vietnamese women chefs. Chefs Doris Hồ-Kane, Nhu Ton and Helen Nguyen are part of the next generation shaping Viet food in America. I’m so proud of them and thrilled to work with them to present unique Vietnamese food experiences to New Yorkers. All tickets include a signed copy of the book:
Lucky 88 sweets box + pickles by chef Doris Hồ-Kane at Bạn Bè [info/ticket]
8-course vegetarian spectacular by chef Nhu Ton at Bánh [info/ticket]
Splendid feast for vegetable + meat lovers by chef Helen Nguyen at Saigon Social [info/ticket]
Seattle chefs Eric Banh and Chris Michel just opened ticketing for our special four-course dinner at Ba Bar Green, a vegetarian grab-and-go concept inside the Ba Bar restaurant space in the South Lake Union area. Eric and his family have long supported my work. Our community events are opportunities for discussion current and future Viet foodways. Join us, if you can!
4 Things
A Refugee Story in a Burundi Restaurant in Detroit (NYT gift link) — Business stories can contain heartfelt stories like this one about a couple that sought refuge in America and presenting their East African flavors to their community.
The Receipt (Bon Appetit) is an anonymous column written by BA readers about their personal finances and food choices. The writers have annual incomes ranging from $18K to $500K. I went looking for my bao slider recipe for you but lingered for these fascinating articles.
Vietnamese Ca-Ri Ga (Chicken Curry) in the hands of a South Asian chef? Yes, if it’s the late Raghavan Iyer, who recently passed away from a long battle with cancer. He was a good friend and dedicated cookbook author. Raghavan knew his time was limited but he had a book left in him — On the Curry Trail. He aimed to present the global nature of curry in all its colonial, misinformed messiness. Raghavan asked to include my recipe from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. I said of course.
My first book signing always happens at home because I send copies to my recipe testers. This time, I’m including PTFS Founding Members! Thrilling.
Ever-Green Vietnamese in Bon Appetit