When is the Best Time to Travel in Vietnam? Where should you go?

🤓 After 20+ years, I think I figured it out!

Hellooooo and Happy Father’s Day to all the PTFS dads!

We just returned from Thailand and Vietnam. If we could, we would have stayed on vacation a little longer. However, I have to be back and over jet lag for next weekend’s Cookbook Fest in Napa. Also, I am doing a book event in Santa Cruz with Khushbu Shah and her debut cookbook.

• Cookbook Fest, Napa, Sat., 6/22 — To save $30 and receive a free apron, use this special promo code: ANDREA30 (Hope to meet you there!).

• Amrikan book event, Sun, 6/23 — at Bookshop Santa Cruz. It’s free. Come say 👋 and learn about Khusbu’s new book. I’m sure copies of my cookbooks will also be available for purchase!

I have to admit that this was an experimental trip for me and my husband, Rory. Even though I was born in Saigon, I can’t stand the heat and humidity that saps the life energy from me the moment I step outdoors.

My first trip in 2002 to the motherland was in winter, during the dry season. We departed around December 31 to get in on an airfare deal.

January’s damp cold in Hanoi and Hue reminded us of the Bay Area. Hoi An was dreary, at best. Saigon (formally Ho Chi Minh City, but it’s hard for me to call it that) seemed insufferably hot. I’ve subsequently been again during winter, but also in late June (dripping hot, my Hanoi relatives apologized for the heat) and late September (post rice harvest and in the middle of burn season, during which I stupidly didn’t mask up like locals and ended up losing my voice to laryngitis).

Other members of my family visit Vietnam right after Tet, in February or March, when the weather is dry and relatively pleasant. When I told them about our 2024 June visit, my brother said, “You’ll be our guinea pig.” My friend Chan said to bring a big hat. Another friend, doctor Mike texted, “Stay hydrated!”

Below — we followed doctor’s orders with a few cooling drinks in Vietnam.

We are all Việt Kiều — overseas Vietnamese living in the diaspora, who’ve embraced life abroad and turned into heat wimps.

My mom admits that when she came to coastal California in May 1975, the mild temperatures were divine. She was instantly sold on America. Politically, she and my dad couldn’t live in Vietnam. Weather-wise, there was no going back for the two of them anyway!

Why ‘When’ Matters more than ‘Where’ to Travel in Vietnam

For me, it’s about finding the sweet spot in order to negotiate four issues:

1. Beating the heat and cold: Vietnam’s geography somewhat mirrors that of California. It’s long with different, varied climates. Unless you’re only going to stay in one place, the potential changes in temperatures can be shocking during winter. I like to go for at least 2 weeks so I’m not going to stay put.

2. Packing light: Luggage-wise, I nowadays only want to pack a small 21-inch suitcase and a duffle bag. Because I tend to buy food souvenirs, my luggage gets progressively heavier during every trip. I need to start out extra light and compact, which means I don’t want to pack for 2 climates.

3. Budget: When I’m in Vietnam, I feel quite rich. Yes, there are BMWs and a few Rolls Royces but Vietnam is still a developing country. Goods and services cost less than they would in the United States. What costs the most is airfare. So when are there deals?

   

4. Work schedules: My husband teaches and the summer is his longest break. But it’s also potentially hot and extra humid.

Given the weather and holidays, Vietnam’s high travel season is from December to end of March — when things are dry. It’s low season lasts from April to November — when there may be rain.

April and May can be dreadfully hot because rain hasn’t arrived and the temperatures start climbing. My friend, Cuong Pham, founder of Red Boat Fish Sauce, explained that June is actually quite good as there will be some rain to break the heat.

I didn’t totally believe him but we wanted to try it out. Plus, I wanted to work with Pim in Bangkok on the cookbook.

We left in late May and indeed, it was hot in Bangkok. However one night, after a downpour, the heat broke and we were able to stroll after dinner and take a wild, nigh time ride in a tuktuk.

Finding My Sweet Spot

On May 29, when we arrived in Hanoi, it was sweltering. However, the next day, there was a bit of rain and just like in Bangkok, relief from the heat followed.

My relatives in Hanoi said, “We in the north enjoy four distinct seasons. In the south, it’s hot or wet.” I didn’t want much distinction in weather and wasn’t about to explain to them that I’d become a soft Việt Kiều.